What should I consider for home security?

Home security can consist of several different possibilities.

Here a set of considerations for improving your home security.  Some are simple and very cost effective while others may require an investment in equipment, time and more money.

• Locksmith – Have a professional locksmith re-key all the locks on the house. You never know who has a key to your new home. There could be a key hidden outside by the former homeowner or a neighbor could have a spare as well. 
• A home safe - Installing a home safe is a very good idea. In a good sturdy fire-resistant safe, you can keep your house documents, inventory, medical/dental records, titles and other valuables. Securing a safe permanently in an out of the way location is the best solution.  What good is a safe that's just sitting in the corner of your bedroom closet.  Once an unsecured safe is carried away, you've still lost the items.  Good crooks know how to drill a safe and get the goodies out.
  
• Home security/alarm – If you are going to have a home security system installed or have the existing one monitored. Do it now. Having a security system monitored often returns a hefty discount on your home insurance policy. In addition to saving money, you get more peace of mind.  Most home security systems have sensors on the windows and doors.  Thieves know this so they break windows or kick in doors.  Having a glass breakage sensor or motion detectors are often an additional expense but do a much better job detecting unwanted guests.
  
• Doors – Make sure your exterior doors are closing well and locking tightly. Always lock the door behind you when you enter your house.  Consider a longer striker plate for your door jamb. The striker is the flat metal plate with the curved edge that the door hardware slides against when latching. Standard striker plates only have short screws to secure them to the jamb. Some hardware stores offer longer strikers that combine both holes for the door hardware and the dead bolt lock. Most importantly, they come with very long bolts to actually anchor the striker to the framing of the house and not just the door jamb. It is very difficult to kick in a door with an extended striker plate.
• Exterior security – Make sure you have good lighting all around the exterior of your house. Floodlights on all corners with motion detectors are a good choice. When anyone is near the house, the lights come on. Trimming back heavy foliage around the perimeter of the house can reduce or eliminate hiding places. 
• Overhead garage door - If you use an overhead garage door opener, when you arrive home. Be sure to look in both side mirrors to make sure you are the only one in the garage. Close the door completely before you get out of the car. If an intruder gets in, you have a very loud car horn that might change their mind.
• A dog? - Yes, a dog.  Dogs have been around since the dawn of man to alert humans to the presence of others nearby.  Even a small dog can fend off potential home invaders.  Yes, they are in investment with veterinarian bills, food, and time exercising them.  However, not only do they provide love and companionship, they have a powerful duty to protect their pack with you as their alpha.  If you loath the idea of rearing a puppy, consider an older rescue dog.  These are often already trained and housebroken.  There are many types of animal rescue centers in most towns.  Animal shelters can also be a great source.
  

Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things.  Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile.  Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.  

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

© Healthy House, Inc. 2009

I’m moved in. Now what?

Moving into a new home is an exciting yet stressful part of your busy life and the stress is almost over.

You’ve been temporarily removed from your regular daily routine to find a Realtor and mortgage officer. They have helped you through the process of finding and financing your new purchase. The home inspection, negotiations and repairs are all done.  Now, you’ve closed and you hold the keys to your largest investment. Most people breath a sigh of relief at this point. However, there are still a few things to consider now that the furniture has been delivered and the boxes are getting unpacked. We’ve put together a checklist of things to consider as you settle into your new place. Many of these items listed can help you organize and manage your new home in a safer more efficient manner.

First, update your profile. You’re my Healthy House.com profile is one of the most useful tools to organize and hold the contact information and records of those whom have helped get to where you are today. Be sure to select your favorite Realtor, contractors and those who helped you in the process of buying your new home. Here are some suggestions of those people you might want to add as a “Favorite”:

• Realtor

• Mortgage officer/broker

• Mover

• Home inspector

• Insurance agent

• Contractors like locksmith, roofer, plumber, electrician, pest control, lawn irrigation or flooring.

You should also update all your profile features like appliances and systems. Some home inspectors collect a lot of this data so check with them or refer to your inspection report. With an accurate profile, you will be poised to receive all the benefits of a smart house. The more detailed and current your profile is, the smarter your house becomes. The smarter your house, the more it can tell you exactly what it needs to stay healthy and the more accurate your maintenance records will be.  When you sell your home, you can take advantage of displaying components of your My Healthy House.com profile as a tool to market your home.


Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things.  Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile.  Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.  

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

© Healthy House, Inc. 2009

Checklist - "I've moved in. Now what?"

Moving in checklist

Update your My Healthy House.com profile – Make your house smart

• Add your house details
• Add your “Favorite” Realtor, Contractors, Home Inspector, Builder and others
• Set up your maintenance reminders to keep track of the things you do
  

 Change of address.  Use the Official US Post Office form.

• Update banking and credit card information
• Voter registration
• Driver’s license
• Newspaper and magazine subscriptions
• Auto title and registration
• Meet with your attorney to discuss changes in will, estate or other legal issues

If you haven’t already done so, set up these local services:

• Auto Finance
• Bank/Finance 
• Cable/Satellite 
• Credit Card
  
• Dentists 
• Doctors
• Dry Cleaner
• Electric
• Fuel (Gas/Oil/Propane) 
  
• Health Club 
• Lawn Service 
• Laundry Service
• Pharmacy
• School registration 
• Sewer District
• Telephone 
• Trash collection
• Veterinarian
• Water utility

 Other things to consider:

• Check all your appliances and electronics to make sure nothing was damaged during the move. There may be a limited amount of time in which to make a claim to either the movers or your insurance company. You should make sure any big ticket items are working properly.
• Keep all your receipts and any documentation related to your move in one file and keep the file in a safe, secure place. Make sure you have your Bill of Lading and payment receipt. You'll need these items related to tax issues.
• When installing your laundry equipment in your home don't use the rubber (black or gray) laundry supply lines for your washing machine.  They have been known to break and can flood a house in minutes.  Instead, invest in the stainless steel braided laundry line which hole much more pressure without weakening the rubber.
• Go ahead and check your HVAC air filter and change the filter is it is at all dirty.
• Check your water heater's TPRV and flush the tank.
  
• Replace all the batteries in your smoke detectors with fresh ones.
• The first step to home security is to re-key all the locks to ensure you are the only one with access.

Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things.  Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile.  Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.  

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

© Healthy House, Inc. 2009

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Are my smoke detectors really that important? Would you rather be dead?

The smoke detector is probably the single most important life-saving device in your home.

Homeowners should be testing and changing batteries in their smoke detectors annually. But, most do not.  Having operable smoke detectors simply saves lives. Two-thirds of reported residential fire related deaths occur in homes with smoke detectors that are not working, have missing or dead batteries or are simply not present. What most people don't know is that the olfactory or smell sense shuts off when we sleep.  However, our sense of hearing remains on and acute.  Do you remember those days of waking up on Saturday morning to the smell of breakfast cooking?  

The danger of a house fire is not necessarily burning up in the flames as most of us fear.  It's the dangerous combustion gases that enter the lungs.  Noxious fumes from different materials burning spread quickly throughout the house and we breath these fumes.  Inhaling the smoke immediately affects our judgment and disorients us.  The trick to saving lives in a fire is to get out into fresh air and away from the burning building as quickly as possible.
 

Many homeowners take these little devices for granted and assume they are foolproof and completely reliable. However, your life is in the hands of one little 9-volt or a couple of AA batteries.  Batteries require testing to ensure they are indeed working and eventual replacement when depleted of their stored energy. There are many smoke detector manufacturers and many different types of detectors available.  Check the instructions for each manufacturer's testing recommendations. If you don’t have this information you can test your smoke detectors by simply pressing and holding the test button for a few seconds. If the device makes a very loud noise while holding the test button down, then its working. If your smoke detectors are interconnected, like on modern homes, you should hear the detectors throughout the house as well. Never test smoke detectors by creating smoke or by putting a candle under the detector.

Modern standards require all new homes must have their smoke detectors installed in each sleeping room, the adjacent hallway and each level of the house.  They must also be interconnected, hardwired to their own electrical circuit and even be AFCI protected.  Interconnecting is important so that if one unit goes off, it triggers all the others in the house.  Hard wiring is important so if the batteries are dead, there is a second electrical source to activate the alarm.  Batteries are the secondary power back up if the electrical system shuts down during a fire.

In addition to testing and replacing the batteries in each smoke detectors, always make sure you have a designated fire escape plan and perform your fire drill annually.  Smoke detectors will only wake you from a deep sleep.  What to do when you awake needs to be figured out and become second nature when flames are near by.

Frequency: Annually 
Difficulty: Very easy

Tools required: Ladder and a finger or a long rod to push the test button 
Completion Time: 1 minute per smoke detector

Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things.  Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile.  Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.  

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

© Healthy House, Inc. 2009

How do and why should I drain my water heater tank?

Draining your water heater tank will not only make it last substantially longer but it will also be more efficient.

If you have a conventional tank type water heater, chances are the tank has never been flushed. Flushing your water heater removes build-up of sediment, which shortens the life span and efficiency of the unit. Water has a huge affinity to resist temperature changes.  This is why a calorie is defined by heating a gallon of water one degree fahrenheit.  The more efficiently we can heat water in the tank, the less energy we consume.  

To drain the unit, refer to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you can’t locate the manual, here are some basic steps for draining most water heaters:

1. For gas units, turn the unit’s thermostat to the pilot position, and for electric units turn the unit off at the main electrical disconnect. This is either in the water heater closet or at the main or sub electrical panel.
2. Shut off the cold water supply. This is usually a valve with a handle located on the water line above the tank.
3. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve (which looks like an water faucet) at the bottom front of the water heater. Be sure this hose terminates at the outside of the house.
4. Open a hot-water faucet anywhere in the house to prevent a vacuum from forming in the lines preventing water from draining from the tank.
5. Open the drain valve and check the color of the water coming out of the end of the hose. At first the water may be orange or brown.
6. Once the water coming out of the end of the hose looks clear, shut off the drain valve, turn off the hot water faucet in the house, and turn the main cold water supply line back on.
7. For gas units you can set the thermostat back to the desired heat, and for electric units you can turn the power back on.

The average residential water heater tank holds 40 gallons. In most cases you don’t need to drain the entire tank, just several gallons till the water comes out clean. Make sure the hose terminates to the outside of the house and nothing is in the way of the drain water which will be very hot.

Frequency: Annually

Difficulty: Easy

Tools Required: Garden hose

Completion Time: One hour

Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things.  Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile.  Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.  

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

© Healthy House, Inc. 2009

So what is the water heater's TPRV?

What is the TPRV and why is it so important?

Your water heater is an important part of your home's plumbing system.  It supplies hot water to all the areas of your house.  Hot water is necessary for proper cleaning of you, your clothes and dishes.  Hot water is important in killing germs.  TPRV is an abbreviation for your water heater’s Temperature Pressure Relief Valve, also known as a T&P valve. This is a small brass pressure relief device that is typically located on the top or side of the water heater tank. When functioning properly this valve will prevent your water heater from rupturing, or in some cases even exploding. If the water temperature exceeds 210 degrees fahrenheit or water pressure exceeds 150 Pounds per Square Inch (PSI), this valve is designed to open and relieve the pressure by forcing water to the exterior of the house. In some cases water heaters have been known to shoot like a rocket through the roof when this valve seizes.  This is when the water heater can over pressurize, rupture or explode.

It is always important to test the TPRV annually to make sure it is not seized and will work if necessary.  Before testing the TPRV read the manufacturer’s instructions either on the yellow attached tag or the sticker on the tank.  Most importantly, confirm that there is actually a drain line attached to the unit that terminates to the exterior of the building and elbow down a few inches from the ground. Most manufacturers recommend simply lifting up on the small test lever for a couple of seconds. If the valve is working properly the handle should life with little resistance and you should hear the flow of water in the line. The valve and line will get warm very fast so don't pull the handle all the way up.  It will stay in that position unitl you push it back down.  If the lever is hard to lift and you don’t hear the flow of water, you may have a seized or faulty TPRV. If you test the TPRV and notice that water continues to trickle out of the drain line, lightly tap the valve lever to re-seat the plunger and it should stop the flow of water. Some manufacturers recommend having the TPRV removed and visually inspected by a plumber every three years.

This is a new water heater with a perfectly working TPRV.

 

Frequency: Annually

Difficulty: Takes a little know-how

Tools Required: Two hands

Completion Time: 5 minutes

This is a ten year old water heater with seized valve.
 

















Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things.  Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile.  Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.  

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

© Healthy House, Inc. 2009

What should I know about foundation repairs?

There are not only different kinds of foundations, there are different kinds of repairs.

Effects of the ground on a foundation can cause stress and failure to a home's foundation. Precautions for a healthy foundation are essential if you want to prevent expensive repairs. There really isn't that much you need to do maintain a healthy foundation.  

The design of the foundation, will determine which repairs methods work best. Slab foundations are typically repaired using concrete press piling, steel press piling, steel helical piers or bell-bottom piers. Crawl space foundations are typically repairs by simply replacing old or damaged piers or by simply re-leveling the house.  Basement foundations suffer mostly from water penetration so most repairs for this type of foundation are related to stopping the water from getting in.

The most common repairs in the southern states are for slab foundations and pier and beam foundations.  Here are some of the most common repairs:

1. A bell-bottom pier is where you actually drill a hole in the ground, create a bell at the bottom for the bearing component of the pier, then pour concrete down into the hole. This pier is then uses to lift and support the house’s foundation. 
2. Some foundation repair contractors claim that the steel pier method is considered the best in long run. The advantage of using a narrower, steel pier is that they can be pushed through the stiffer soils better than the concrete piling. The harder and more stable steel pier can be driven into solid rock or a hard loading bearing material at much higher pressures of up to 10,000 PSI. Steel piers can also be driven to depths of as much as 60 feet. A foundation repair using steel piers typically takes one to three days to complete. Steel helical piers are also an alternative to digging a hole or pressing a piling. Steel helical piers are drilled into the soil using a machine that measures the pressure the tip of the dill is exerting on the ground. When a pressure increase is measured that indicates a proper load bearing soil, the drill ceases and the pier is cut to fit under the house.
3. Some in the industry considers the pressed piling method of repair a fast, easy and clean solution. The pre-cast piling is mated with a solid core of steel and concrete then hydraulically driven using an installation force of 5000 PSI. Because of certain to soil characteristics, mechanics of friction and compression, this system can attain support strength of twice its installation force within one month after installation. 
4. A more economical repair method is to drill or pour concrete piers. Holes are typically drilled to a depth of 9-12 feet below the ground surface, and then filled with reinforcing steel and concrete. Poured concrete is topped with concrete spacers and shims and the house is supported on this structure.

Any foundation repair work should begin with hiring a structural engineer’s evaluation of the site or structure. They will be one to test and determine which foundation system or repair would the best for your situation. Having a structural engineer involved is essential. Without their involvement, you chances of future problems is increased. The engineers job is to design and ensure the proper implementation of the design into the repairs. You should also consider a hydrostatic test especially if there is substantial deflection (greater than 2’ deflection over a 20’ span) or cast iron drains under the slab.

Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things.  Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile.  Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.  

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

© Healthy House, Inc. 2009

What is a "Basement" foundation?

Basements are not just for hanging out, they can be the heart of the house.

Basements are typically used in areas where freeze lines exist. For this and other purposes, the basement foundation is typically built stronger and better reinforced than a typical shallow foundation like a concrete slab-on-grade. Basements are not a good idea where the water table has the potential to rise or substantial excavation obstructions like rock exist. If you are considering using a basement with your new construction project, consider a full-height foundation of eight feet high. This will provide the necessary height requirements for building in the basement for living space and optimizing your investment. 

Like slab foundations, gravel is generally placed below the poured floor for drainage control. Walls have been traditionally built of brick or block construction but modern methods include insulated concrete forms, and reinforced concrete. Floors of a basement are simply a slab-on-grade foundation with a water proofing system as part of the design. Most basements can be damage by water intrusion so waterproofing is essential for this type of foundation system. Basements are typically not used as sleeping rooms unless adequate emergency egress windows are installed to provide emergence egress and natural lighting.

Basements are typically used to contain important systems like HVAC, heating oil tanks, other utility, storage and even parking.  There are different types of basements including the walkout or daylight basement, lookout, walk-up and cellar styles.

Walkout basements are typically situated on sloping lots to take advantage of the area under the house.  A doorway is usually located on the higher part of the basement for walk in access.  These types of basements are also called "daylight basements" since there are usually windows on the descending parts of the sloping lot to allow light to enter the area.  With a daylight basement, emergency egress can be accomplished by the location of escape windows and doors so rooms can be used as living and sleeping areas.  The big advantage of a daylight or walkout basement is the opportunity to use the additional living space as appraised square footage increasing the value of the home.

Lookout basements are those basements partial underground with windows near the top part of the walls.  These basements can not be use as sleeping areas safely so they do not have all the advantages of a walkout or daylight basement.

Walk-up basements are generally below grade and are walked down into via a stairwell.  There are generally no windows or the windows are partially accessible making use of this space less appropriate for habitation.

Cellars are likely the original form of a basement.  For a cellar to be effective, it must be cool all year round and not get close to freezing.   Wine and some foods will store well in cellars for some time.  They also second as a shelter for storms and in times of war safety from air raids.

The critical factor for all basement construction is making sure the floor is below the freeze line.  Freezing soils will expand causing excessive pressures that will push the house up causing potential damage.  Walls are typically only seven foot and ten inches high unstead of the typical eight foot of most living space walls.


Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things.  Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile.  Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.  

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

© Healthy House, Inc. 2009

What is a "Concrete Slab" foundation?

Shallow foundations such as slab-on-grade are also know as slab-on-grade, spread footings and mat-slab foundations.

Concrete slab foundations are usually built in areas where freezing soils are not common.  A slab foundation is a concrete and steel structure placed over a moisture barrier and the house's plumbing systems and allowed to mold to the compacted ground below.  Footings are required to help stabilize the structure over time and fight against the ongoing and changing pressure of the ground below as moisture changes take place in the soil. Footings for a slab should be numerous and be dug to a depth where load-bearing materials are found.  Forms, usually made of wood are constructed to hold in the concrete as its poured to mold the foundation.  Once the foundation begins to cure and is considered "Green", the forms are removed.  Later, a plaster coat is placed over the edges of the foundation to cover up the impressions left by the forms and make the edges of the slab more attractive.

Since plumbing is installed under the foundation, there is substantially more difficulty in accessing these items in case of a repair.  In addition, the copper plumbing supply lines must be protected by sleeves to prevent the corrosive components of the concrete from making contact.  Over time, if steel or concrete are in contact with copper, corrosion or dielectric reactions occur causing deterioration and eventual leaking may occur. Another problem related to slab foundations is the difficulty to repair or level slabs once excessive movement occurs or failing sections break away. 

A slab foundation has the advantage of warmer floors in the winter and a good choice when expansive clay soils are not an issue on the construction site.  However, even in Texas and California where expansive clay soils are prevalent, the cost to performance ratios still show the benefit of using lower cost concrete slab foundations in theses areas.

There are two basic types of concrete foundations used today.  The mild steel foundation is usually used on custom or higher quality homes.  It involves engineered drawings of specific placement of steel components and other criteria.  Post tension cable foundations are generally used on track homes and rely on steel cables in plastic conduits.  After the concrete is place in the forms, tens of thousands of pounds of pressure is used to tension the cables and hold sections of the foundation from failing if cracking takes place.

Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things.  Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile.  Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.  

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

© Healthy House, Inc. 2009

What is a "Pier and Beam" foundation?

Pier and beam foundations are also know as raised foundation, block beam and perimeter beam.

Known as one of the first built and more sustainable foundation types, pier and beam/crawl space construction is still used today.  If your house is on a pier and beam foundation, you should have better access to the items under your house than a slab foundation allows. In contrast, a slab foundation has the plumbing buried under the house which are not accessible without digging under or breaking through the concrete.

For proper access, a crawl space door should be provided at the perimeter and should have a minimum of eighteen inches of head clearance and twenty-four inches of width.  There should be hinges and a latch to secure the door.  Preferably, the door will close tight, will swing to the side and not be in contact with the ground.  Doors that swing up have to be held in place for access.  In some cases, there is a removable portion of a floor, usually located in a closet, that can be removed so a person can access the crawl space.  The minimum opening for a drop down door should be twenty-four by twenty-four inches and there should be at least thirty inches below this area for the person to safely move from a standing to a crawling position.  The head clearance in a crawl space should be a minimum of eighteen inches from the ground level to the bottom of the floor joists. This provides access to areas of the house for inspection and repair. In most cases, the electrical wiring and plumbing is routed to all areas of the first floor from under the house and is secured by attachment to the bottom of the floor joists.

A crawl space should be ventilated to prevent accumulation of moisture which is damaging to the wood components as well as foundation movement and termite activity. The rule of thumb is to have evenly distributed vents around the perimeter of the building that allow a minimum of one square foot of ventilation per one hundred fifty square feet of crawl space surface area. In general, if you have a vent around the bottom of the house ever eight to ten feet, then you are probably fine. Often, homeowners will cover the ventilation openings in the perimeter to keep out the cold in the winter. This can be detrimental if the winter is damp. Decreasing the ventilation can prevent moisture from escaping the foundation crawl space and can cause damage. Some power ventilation systems can be designed to include a humidistat and baffles so that when the moisture is to high under the house, a fan turns on venting the moisture out. Once the moisture is vented out and the area under the house is dry, the fan turns off and the baffles close keeping out the cold. 

Your crawl space should be inspected annually for plumbing leaks, wood damage, pest access and any other problems. Always be careful when accessing a crawl space by wearing protective equipment like proper clothing and a respirator for proper health and safety.

Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things.  Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile.  Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.  

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

© Healthy House, Inc. 2009

Foundation control and stabilization

Climate and moisture control

Homes are built on many different kinds of ground.  Expansive clay soils are found in many areas of the country.  If your home is on expansive clay, you will want to understand what you can do to care for and make your house healthy.

Your home’s foundation must be kept stable weather it is a concrete slab, pier and beam or basement. There are three primary ways to accomplish this goal and keep you house healthy. Based on changing weather conditions, excessive moisture, freezing soils or drought many foundations tend to move from their original position. Controlling moisture around the perimeter and even under a house is critical.

Rain gutters are the best way to control perimeter moisture from roof runoff and perimeter soil erosion during rainy weather. Proper grading and drainage away from the structure is equally important. Any spot where water can pool can cause expansion of the soil causing pressure to push the house.  Finally, a lawn irrigation system will help keep moisture even year round. If you don’t have a built in lawn an irrigation system, consider a simple soaker hose if you live in clay soil areas. A soaker hose on a timer set to saturate the soil to about 18” deep every 3-5 days can help prevent excessive movement of a slab. Just make sure you are not over-watering a particular area and that the moisture is even around the perimeter.

Foundation movement can cause cracks to interior and exterior walls.  It can also cause stress to the drain lines under the house to the point of cracking.  This could lead to an quick and serious movement and enevitibly a more immediate and expensive problem to repair. Watch your weather and house closely for signs of movement as weather changes and prepare to take the necessary measures if movement gets out of control.   

Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things.  Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile.  Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.  

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

© Healthy House, Inc. 2009

Introduction to your home's plumbing systems

How does water get in and out?

There are three basic utilities provided to most homes.  These are the electric, plumbing and sometimes gas/oil fuel utilities.  The plumbing utility consisting of the pipes and fixtures for the distribution of water or gas in a building and for the disposal of waste water or sewage.

Your plumbing systems are usually routed under your house and are designed and installed as two separate systems. Each separate system is routed under the concrete slab, through the crawl space or overhead in a basement.  Water is supplied to fixtures like commodes and sinks through the water supply lines.  In most cases, the main water line comes into the house from the water meter where its connected directly to the water heater area.  From here, both the cold and hot lines supply water to other plumbing areas of the house like the kitchen, laundry and bathrooms.  In these areas, as water us used, it goes from supply water to waste water.

Like the water supply lines, the drains that carry the waste water from the fixtures are located under the house.  Drains can only work if there is slope for the water to drain out and away from each plumbing fixture.  For this reason, houses built below the street level city's sewer drains, an ejector pump is often required to force the material up hill.  Drains consist of two sub-systems.  Gray lines carry used water from areas like sinks, laundry, tubs and showers to the main sewer line.  Black lines carry contaminated sewer waste water from the commodes.  Vents are necessary to control and discharge the sewer gases safely above the roof line so no one in the yard or house can smell the noxious fumes.  All these drain components join up in different areas of the house and finally converge into the main sewer which carries the waste out from the house underground to the municipal waste water plant or septic system for processing.  Most modern homes have a sewer clean outs located on the main sewer line in the yard in case the line needs to be opened and cleared of any clogs. Vents also have clean outs for the same reason.

Water supply lines for the past several decades have been made from copper. Prior to the use of copper, galvanized steel lines were used (pre-1970s). Modern home are now using more plastic materials like PEX (cross-linked polyethylene).  However, PVC has been used as a water supply material since it's inception over 40 years ago.  PVC however, has been considered more of a cheap alternative to more standard materials like copper.  Plastic material is more cost effective to install than copper due to the rising cost of this particular non-ferrous metal.

A water supply system begins at the water meter.  This meter measures the volume of water a house uses. The owner's side main water shutoff valve is generally next. You always want to know where this valve is located and that it is always accessible in case of a water rupture emergency. From the main valve, the main line leads to your house. Often, the main line goes directly to the water heater area then branches from there to all the plumbing areas of your house like bathrooms and the kitchen. Water supply lines are under pressure from the supply of water that feeds neighborhood. Generally, the maximum water pressure to a house should be 80 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch). More pressure that that can cause damage.  For this reason, there is often a water pressure regulator located just after the main water shutoff on most homes built sine the 1990s.   

Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things.  Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile.  Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.  

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

© Healthy House, Inc. 2009

Introduction to your home's foundation

What is a home's foundation

Your home’s foundation is basically that part of the house where the building rests all of it's weight.  The foundation's job is to evenly transfer the weight of the house from the roof through the ceilings, through the walls and finally from the floors to the ground.  Another purpose of a foundation is to keep the house stable by anchoring it to the ground, from moving adversely or getting blown away . Foundations should also be designed to resist moisture penetration like water, ice and snow. It should also be designed to prevent pests access, mold and fungus penetration as well as ground gases from getting into the living spaces of a home.

The most important function of the foundation is resist the pressure of expansive clay soils and hydrostatic pressure from water in the earth. Changing climate conditions can have an adverse effect on the performance of most foundations if not monitored and controlled.  Moisture control around the perimeter and under the house is critical for a healthy foundation. Any soil movement can cause pressure on the foundation resulting in cracking walls, binding windows and doors, or even floor deflections.  In extreme cases, a house can be damaged to the point of collapsing in on itself.

Most modern homes built on lots without excessive slopes and where soils do not freeze will be built on concrete slab foundations.  The deep footings that penetrate the earth are designed to support and stabilize the house.  Foundation movement can be caused by natural climate changes as well as sub slab drain leaks under the house.  Potential for this particular problem exists for all slab homes.  However, the early slabs from the 1950s through the 1970s are especially prone to this problem since the drains are made of older more brittle cast iron.  Since the plumbing of a slab house is routed under the concrete foundation, if any area of the sub slab infrastructure is leaking, substantial movement and damage may result.  It is often difficult to discern exactly where the drain lines run with out special tests and equipment.

Basement foundations are often found in areas where there is a deep freeze line. The freezing soil can have a dramatic effect of pressure against the foundation walls and in some cases the basement floor. Placing the base of the foundation on a substrate that will bear weight is always preferred.

Pier and beam foundations sit over a crawl space that must be ventilated for proper foundation performance. Ventilation is necessary to keep moisture from accumulating under the house.  In crawl spaces, it is easy to access the electrical, plumbing systems and in some cases the HVAC ducting.  It is often easier to determine and control moisture issues on a pier and beam foundation than a basement or slab simply because of the visibility and access.

Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things.  Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile.  Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.  

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

© Healthy House, Inc. 2009