MyHealthyHouse.com

Ohght Oh! I gotta fix that before Mom gets back!

2010-03-07T10:16:00.000-08:00

What do you do when you need to fix something quick?

True and personal story. My wife was off on a ski trip this week and I was batching it with the kids (7 & 9). I was making microwave popcorn last night and broke off the plastic handle opening the door. She had been complaining about the crack on the bottom of the handle for some time but I put off the repair. I did however do my due diligence when she began inquiring about what had to be done to fix the problem. I found the replacement part online for about $125 but it was discontinued by the manufacturer and apparently no longer available anywhere. The way the handle broke, I need to replace the whole door. By the way, plastic is a bad idea when you have all that heat under the microwave oven. Over time, it causes stress cracks.

Conundrum. The old microwave oven was a cheap, white plastic one provided by the builder back in 1994 when our house was built. I never liked the builder grade choices when we bought the house. Over time, we've been replacing fixtures, knobs and other things as the break with better quality custom choices. My wife and I had discussed a full kitchen redo including modern stainless steel appliances but now was not the time. We had pretty much decided to replace all our 16 year old white appliances with stainless steel in about two to three years. So my problem in making this repair was what kind of microwave oven should I choose to replace the original one and where could I get it before she returned the next day at 3 PM.

After sleeping on the thought, I began my research the next morning at 6 AM. Since I couldn't get the replacement part, my only choices were to replace the oven with a similar cheaper white plastic for around $200 or go for the stainless for a hundred more. I found what I wanted online at the major hardware stores but upon arrival at 8 AM, they informed me all they had was the cheaper white one. Due to modern "Just In Time" inventory control measures and floor space constraints, they only showed some of the display models they carried and stocked only the cheaper frequently sold items in the stores. If I wanted the stainless, I would have to pick it up from the warehouse Monday of they could have it shipped arriving Tuesday or Wednesday. That just would not work. I wanted my wife's return to be more than just a homecoming. I wanted it to be a plus. The plus is that I had the house clean and fixed the problem I created. I decide to find a local scratch and dent store which opened at 10 AM. After a leisurely breakfast with the kids, we stopped by the Giant Discount Appliances on North Lamar in Austin. After walking the in the front door of the warehouse, I found the rack of "in stock" units right away. No more than 30 seconds after walking in, Scott approached and asked if I needed help. I told him I needed a cheap stainless steel microwave oven in perfect condition. Expecting that they only carried slightly damaged appliances, he informed me of a new LG unit ready for pick up. The price tag was $269. I bought it on-site and after he explained the purchase policy, they were loading it up in my truck. I was out of there in 20 minutes.

It took me about an hour to pull the old unit off the wall and install the new one. All in all, when Momma got home, she was not only surprised but very happy. Her only comment to me was "I love it but it doesn't match any of the other appliances." My reply, "I guess this is the official start of our kitchen remodel." Now If I can just put off the whole remodel until I have enough cash to pay for the whole thing, We'll be in good shape. Till then, she is happy just knowing I can take care of business in crunch time.

Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things. Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile. Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

Cleaning your home's gutters downspouts

2009-12-29T14:37:00.000-08:00

What a bother you say?

Besides keeping you from getting drenched when stepping out the front door, rain gutters do lots of good for the overall health of a house. Functioning gutters can prevent erosion around the foundation, siding and exterior doors from deteriorating. Gutters can save a house from the damaging effects of water.

However, they do require regular maintenance. Chances are, if you have gutters you probably don’t clean them out often enough. If you notice vegetation growing in your gutters, then you are waiting far too long. Here are some of the problems that occur when gutters are left clogged for extended periods of time:

Water damming occurs which can cause damage to eaves and soffits
Water can leak into the house and cause damage to walls and flooring
Mosquitoes can breed in the standing water. Remember, mosquitoes pass diseases to humans.
Dry leaves in gutters can be a fire hazard, especially when fireworks are used, or in areas prone to wild fires
Deterioration of gutters occurs, which cause leaks and eventual failure

Frequency of cleaning out gutters is different for every house. Determining factors include:

The proximity of trees to the roof line
The type of trees
Slope of the roofing

For houses with trees within ten feet of the roof line, gutters will need to be cleaned out twice a year at a minimum. In some cases gutters may need to be cleaned out a couple times in fall alone. Even if there are no trees around, gutter cleaning may still be required, especially on houses with asphalt shingles. Over time these shingles loose their granules and eventually these granules make their way into the gutters, and can cause the damming effect of added weight and prevent proper drainage from the gutters.

Cleaning your gutters from a ladder or the roof can be extremely dangerous. In most cases, this task should be left to a professional. Think first about the down time and cost of a broken leg or arm before taking on any dangerous jobs around the house. Often the cost of hiring this job out to an expert is substantially less then a potential injury might cost you.

There are some products available that homeowner can use to reach lower gutters. Most of these tools simply attach to the end of a garden hose so the water spray can push the debris out.

Frequency: As needed (usually late spring and fall)
Difficulty: medium difficulty with higher risk of injury (ladder or rooftop)
Tools Required: Gloves, hose, ladder
Completion Time: One to two hours

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OK, my faucet is dripping. Now what do I do to fix it?

2009-12-29T09:29:00.000-08:00

Water conservation always translates to money savings.

When you see a drip at a faucet you are seeing money go down the drain. One seemingly minor dripping faucet can lead to hundreds of gallons of water loss per month. Did you know a home's sink faucet dripping 1 drip per second looses 5 gallons/day and 2,082 gallons/year. When a drip develops it’s very important to have it fixed immediately. Dripping faucets are often caused by the cracking and failed rubber seal in the fixture. In some cases this rubber seal can easily be replaced. When you go to the hardware store, you will have to know the faucet manufacturer or bring in the old washer to match it up. If you feel confident, you can try this repair but is plumbing is not your skill, we recommend hiring a plumber to correct this problem. If you do hire a plumber, it might be best to simply replace the faucet instead of fixing it. It's going to cost you a couple hundred dollars for the plumbers time. If you do attempt this repair or any plumbing for that matter, always be sure to turn off the water supply.

Frequency: When necessary
Difficulty: Requires some know-how
Completion Time: 15 minutes

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Avoid frozen plumbing pipes

2009-12-29T09:07:00.000-08:00

Don't wake up to a flood!

Every winter thousands of homeowners have the unpleasant experience of ruptured plumbing pipes. In most cases this nightmare is completely avoidable. When the outside temperature drops below 32 degrees Farenheit (0 degrees Celsius), and when plumbing supply lines aren’t properly protected, the water in the pipes freezes and expands bursting the pipe. This can happen to copper, galvanized steel or even plastic piping.

So what can you do to protect you house? The best defense is ensuring that all exposed and visible water supply lines and exterior faucets (hose bibs) are properly insulated. Most houses have either a pier-and-beam or slab foundation. For houses with a pier-and-beam foundation, the supply lines are often underneath the house and not insulated properly.

Tubular pipe insulation works well and is easy to install. There is even a split type with a self-adhesive strip. The tape can be pulled off and the tube closed by simply pressing the adhesive ends together. This material comes in long lengths and can easily be cut to fit. In addition, all exterior faucets should be covered with a foam insulating cover, which can be found at most hardware stores. For houses on a slab foundation, insulating the water supply lines under the house is not possible or necessary. Simply make sure that the exterior faucets are properly insulated. An alternate to insulating lines is to let the lines drip at the faucets just slightly. This relieves pressure off the line but may not help in excessively low temperatures. The other problem with letting the faucets drip is that they're typically forgotten wasting gallons of water.

Frequency: Before a freeze is expected or by October in most areas.
Difficulty: Easy
Tools Required: Two hands
Completion Time: 10 minutes or a few hours depending on the type of foundation

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How do I drain my home's water heater tank?

2009-12-29T08:50:00.000-08:00

So easy a homeowner could do it!

If you have a conventional tank type water heater, chances are you have never flushed the tank. Most people don’t probably because they thing it is difficult. Flushing your water heater removes build-up of sediment, which shortens the life span and efficiency of the unit. To drain the unit, refer to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you can’t locate the manual, here are the steps for draining most water heaters:

For gas units, turn the unit’s thermostat to the pilot position so you don't have to relight the pilot. For electric units turn the unit off at the main electrical disconnect. This is either in the water heater closet or at the main or sub electrical panel.
Shut off the cold water supply. This is usually a valve with a handle located on the water line above the tank.
Attach a garden hose to the drain valve (which looks somewhat like an water faucet) at the bottom front of the water heater. Be sure this hose terminates at the outside of the house.
Open a hot-water faucet anywhere in the house to prevent a vacuum from forming in the lines preventing water from draining from the tank.
Open the drain valve and check the color of the water coming out of the end of the hose. At first the water may be orange, brown or otherwise dirty. BE CAREFUL, the water will be very hot.
Once the water coming out of the end of the hose looks clear, shut off the drain valve, turn off the hot water faucet in the house, and turn the main cold water supply line back on.
For gas units you can set the thermostat back to the desired heat, and for electric units you can turn the power back on.

The average residential water heater tank holds 40 gallons. In most cases you don’t need to drain the entire tank, just a few gallons. Make sure the hose terminates to the outside of the house or you will have a mess to clean up.

Frequency: Annually
Difficulty: Easy
Tools Required: Garden hose
Completion Time: One hour

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How to stop your A/C primary drain from a catastrophy!

2009-12-28T12:52:00.000-08:00

Clogged primary drains result is substantial damage!

Understanding how your A/C works is a important knowledge for all homeowners. One of your A/C system's main duties is to remove the moisture from the living space. Once the A/C's evaporator coil removes the humidity from the air, it drains the moisture through a primary drain line to either the exterior of the house or into a drain under a bathroom sink. In some rare cases, the primary drains into a sump pump in the return plenum. As long as the A/C is working, the primary drain line should be running water.

Mold is the primary culprit. Often, the primary drain line gets clogged with mold spores circulating in the air. Since the environment inside the primary drain is perfect for mold to grow and clog the line, it happens time and time again. The result is an overflow either to a secondary emergency system or onto the floor or ceiling causing expensive and catastrophic effects.

There is a way to prevent this damage. Educated homeowners know that by pouring about a cup of bleach into the beginning of the primary drain line they can prevent problems. The bleach will drain through this gravity feed tube and kill all the mold that is growing inside the line. Failure to do this does not necessarily guarantee a overflow but the chances are greatly increased if this maintenance task is not completed a couple of times a summer.

Some systems have a secondary emergency system others do not. Depending on they type of system you have (horizontal or vertical) you may have a secondary system that kicks in if the primary drain does overflow. A secondary system can be another drain that terminates to the exterior (over an eave or soffit) or there could be a overflow kill switch in place that turns off the compressor if an overflow occurs.

A vertical system has the coil above (see gas unit to left) or below (see electric unit to right) the furnace/air handler. There is usually no emergency system in place for this orientation so having a shutoff switch installed in the primary or secondary drain is a very great idea. With no emergency system in place, if the primary drain overflows, the water has no where to go but into the return plenum and across the slab. Carpet and wood can be destroyed in a matter of minutes. Hence the installation of an overflow kill switch in the primary (or secondary) drain is a great improvement.

Horizontal systems are usually located above ceilings and typically have an emergency overflow pan located under the coil. The secondary system usually starts from the coil as a short drain line that elbows down into the emergency overflow pan. It is usually located next to the primary drain but about a quarter inch higher. If the primary drain clogs, the water in the coil rises over the primary pan and flows out the secondary elbow in to the pan. The drain pan should allow water to drain to the exterior over a window, door or highly visible area for the homeowner to notice there is a problem. Overflow kill switches located in the pan are also allowed in most cases instead of a physical drain line but use of both the drain line and the switch are better.

As a important improvement, each coil should have an optional overflow kill switch installed in the primary or secondary drain line to prevent the catastrophic failure of the primary drain system. These are easily affordable as an improvement and will save you hundreds of dollars in flooring or ceiling repairs. They're easy to install but it is recommended that you have your HVAC contractor install them since the overflow kill switch has to be connected into your HVAC system's thermostat control wires to work properly. Cost for an improvement like this is around $100 for each A/C system and should be done in conjunction with an annual cleaning and service call.

If the secondary system does drip water under an eave area (or in plain sight-see left image) or the overflow kill switch is activated, you will need to contact your HVAC contractor right away to clear the primary drain line. The clog usually has to be blown out with compressed air. Don't wait for this to be a problem for you. Clear the line each summer in May and July by pouring about a cup of bleach at the beginning of the primary drain line. Understand and know your HVAC system so you can properly care for it and reduce your expenses in it's operation and repairs.

Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things. Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile. Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

Just exactly how does my A/C work?

2009-12-28T11:03:00.000-08:00

Air conditioning is really not a very complicated process.

Simply put, your A/C removes heat and moisture from the air inside the house. It does so using a fairly complex system of copper tubes fans, valves, wiring, and other things that all play an intricate role in conditioning the indoor air.

The outdoor compressor and indoor condenser (in most cases) are two different yet linked components. The outside compressor is a small tank that sits inside that large metal box. There is a motor with a fan attached just under the top of the compressor and some electrical and copper pipes that run into the house called the line set.
At the outside unit, the compressor physically compresses cool refrigerant gas under high pressure to form a hot vapor.
This liquid hot vapor is pushed through the smaller "liquid line" to the condenser coils inside the house.
The hot refrigerant liquid runs through an expansion valve inside the coil, causing it to evaporate and become cold gas again.
The cold freon gas flows through set of small tubes or the evaporator coil located just above (horizontal system) or just down stream from (vertical system) the furnace.
The fan at the air handler (bottom part of the furnace) then turns on and blows air across the evaporator coil. The home's air becomes cold and travels through a the supply pleunum, supply ducts and finally into the rooms through the supply registers.
The air is then sucked back or returned to the return air plenum located near the thermostat. The air is filtered here before the warm ambient air is recirculated back toward the coil to start air circulation process all over.
The freon gas that has passed through the evaporator coil and picked up the heat and moisture from the air is then returned back to the compressor outside through a larger pipe called the "suction line", where the heat is removed from the refrigerant. Then, refrigerant cycle starts all over again.
The moisture removed from the air at the coil drips off the coil into a pan and drain out to a primary drain line. This drain line runs water whenever the A/C is operating. If the primary drain line clogs up with mold, the system should overflow into a secondary drain system (how to keep the primary drain line from clogging).

Never operate your compressor when the outside temperature is less than 60 degrees. Because the system relies on outside temperatures of 70 degrees or better, there is a risk of damage to the compressor. You always want to have your HVAC system serviced in the late spring to make sure everything is working for the coming summer. Thinking your system cooled last year does not mean that everything is fine. A system might feel cool but may not operating efficiently. It may also be running out of refrigerant through a small leak that will crash your system in August.

Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things. Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile. Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

Cleaning out your home's return air plenum.

2009-12-27T08:16:00.000-08:00

It's like blowing your home's nose!

Your home's return plenum is a part of your HVAC (heating ventilation and air conditioning) system that is out of site and usually out of mind. The word plenum means a chamber intended to contain air, gas, or liquid at positive pressure. Simply put, its the box the air travels through. In this case the return plenum is where home's ambient air returns to the HVAC system to be heated or cooled. Since its hidden, most homeowners never look inside this part of the house. This area often becomes a repository for all sorts of material such as dust, debris, pet hair, dust bunnies and even the dead bodies of pests.

The return plenum gets dirty for two primary reasons:

Improper sealing - The ducting and/or plenum is not sealed properly. This is very common and renders an air filter mostly useless
Deferred maintenance - Air filters haven’t been changed regularly or the filter becomes so dirty, blow-by occurs (more)

The return plenum is often located behind a metal grill on a wall, in the ceiling or in rare cases, on the floor of older homes. This area is the chamber behind or below the air filter depending on if the filter is located behind the grill or located under the air handler unit.

Cleaning out this area is very easy. Simply open or remove the grill (which ever applies). Then, using a good flashlight, survey the area to determine if any build up is present and just how dirty it actually is. Carefully vacuum out the box. Having the return plenum sealed while you have it open will reduce debris build up as well as dramatically increases the air quality of the home. A sealed plenum reduces cleaning and maintenance on the HVAC system's coil and ducts. Sealing the plenum is easy but depending on how tight the space is, it may take some time to cover all the seams and joints with a sealant. If your return plenum was built correctly, it will be lined with drywall or another approved material like fiberboard. You shouldn't see framing like studs or the sole plate of the wall or any fiberglass batt material. Be sure to choose a sealant that is approved for indoor use by reading the product label. You will be breathing the sealant fumes until the sealant cures.

While you're at it, look for water stains in this area and check to see if air is getting past your air filter. This section might not apply to those of you who have an inline HEPA filter. If your air filter is located below the air handler, remove and look into the lower panel on the air handler to see if it's dirty in the fan area. If you filter is located behind the grill, the 1" lip where the filter sits will show dust that has missed the filter (blow-by). If you find dirt has bypasses the filter, consider relocating the filter from the under air handler to a return grill filter type. If you already have a return grill filter, consider weather stripping the 1" lip so the stripping is between the filter and frame. This will form a good seal and prevent blow-by.

If your air handler/furnace/coil are located directly above this area, there is a good change water has overflowed or will over flow the A/C's primary drain line. Consider installing a primary drain overflow kill switch especially if you have any carpet or wood flooring you don't want destroyed if the primary drain does overflow. Maintaining your primary drain by pouring about a cup of bleach in the beginning of the primary drain will help prevent these overflows.

Frequency: Check every three years

Difficulty: Easy

Tools Required: Household vacuum cleaner and a screwdriver

Completion Time: 15 minutes

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

Utility saving case study. How much can you save?

2009-12-21T06:12:00.000-08:00

Have you ever taken a close look at your home's utility usage and what you can do to reduce?

I did a utility consumption study on my home recently just to see if a few cultural/behavioral changes made any measurable difference in my overall utility bills from one year to the next. I'm adding actual data from my personal home in the form of graphs from the City of Austin to illustrate the study.

We have a 1994 single story all brick 2,100 square foot home in Austin, TX that has a gas water heater and furnace. However, the gas utility was not part of this study simply because there was no real change in that particular service based on the changes we implemented. I might also add that the year 2009 in central Texas was one of the heaviest droughts in history and still our usage dropped simply by paying attention to what we do on a daily basis.

My wife and I are 42 years old with two children (ages 7 and 9).

Electrical savings
During the year 2008, we lived normally. The only cultural/behavioral changes made in 2009 were the following:

Night lights used during the night were changed from the sensor type to manual switch type. They were manually turned on just before bed and turned off each morning upon rising.
The HVAC's programmable thermostat was adjusted one degree higher in the summer and one degree lower in the winter.
All unused appliances were unplugged including toaster, coffee makers, battery chargers, phone chargers, etc.
We turned off our 3-4 computers each evening when going to bed and turned them back on when needed.
Tried to be diligent turning off lights when we were not in a particular room.
It seems I was a bit more aggressive on paying attention to these proposed changes from June on based on the graph below. I'm betting the results would have been substantially better if the plan were followed more closely all year.

The overall cost of electricity for our house in 2008 was $1,495.60 for a total of 15,571 Kilowatt hours. Comparing that to the electrical cost of 2009 at $1,259.93 for 12,725 Kilowatt hours resulted in a savings of $235.67 over 2009. We lowered our monthly average electrical cost from $124.63 to $104.99 per month.

Water savings

When we went to the bathroom and only liquids were deposited, the commode was only flushed once every two to three uses.
The irrigation system was turned on in May and turned off in September but left on all year in 2008.
When brushing teeth or shaving, the water was turned off.

The overall cost of water for our house in 2008 was $896.66 for a total of 209,900 gallons. Comparing that to the water cost of 2009 at $388.35 for 92,600 gallons resulted in a savings of $508.31 over 2009. We lowered our monthly average water use from $74.72 to $32.36 per month.

So, by slightly adjusting the way we think about using water and electricity, we saved $743.98 in 2009. We will continue making slight changes in 2010. Some of those changes will be sealing our HVAC ducting and better weatherproofing our home starting in January 2010. Check back next year to see the savings.

One of the features we plan on implementing on http://www.myhealthyhouse.com are ways to monitor a home's utility consumption as well as teach homeowners what they can do to save money. Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile. Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

The importance of replacing your HVAC air filter

2009-12-20T16:12:00.000-08:00

Clean air filters keep your HVAC system and the air you breath clean!

Your HVAC (Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning) systems air filters should be changed not when they're dirty but on frequently planned intervals. Your home's air filters are like your cars oil filter. Only clean oil works effectively as a lubricant. If you wait to change your car's oil and filter when it’s dirty, the performance and fuel efficiency of the engine decreases. This is the same for your home's HVAC system.

There are many different kinds of air filters. Each has pros and cons. Below is a list of most filters available from cheapest to most expensive:

1" unframed spun plastic cut from bulk material. This material is the cheapest. It does not have a frame so it fits poorly and allows many particles to escape the filter.
1" framed spun fiberglass. These are usually blue or white. They are low cost but do not capture small particles. They must change often (monthly).
1" framed pleated paper media. These are usually gray or white with deep one inch pleats. The cost can be up to five times a fiberglass filter. These are preferred as the most effective filtration material.
1" washable media. These area usually black in a metal silver colored frame. These last longer but must be washed and dried monthly creating quite a hassle.
Return air grill HEPA filter system. This a four inch deep pleated filter with a 1” extension frame that fits existing return air grills where the air is returned to the HVAC system. They are more costly than 1” pleated filter but last much longer and filter more material resulting in fewer changes per year. Typically, this type of filter is changed twice a year.
The in-line HEPA filter fits in box next to or under the HVAC system. This system last much longer than a standard 1" pleated filter thus requires fewer changes per year. However, the initial installation of the in line box is more costly to install.
Electrostatic filter systems. These are electrically charged so there is a risk of electrocution. Since the system is permanent, it lasts longest but is costly to install but this system filters the most material.

Filters should always be changed or cleaned based on the manufacturer’s recommendations. It is probably the easiest thing to do to keep your HVAC system clean, running efficiently, reduce your maintenance costs and extend the overall life of your system.

Most homes have the filters located as the first point of air intake but some have them located near the main HVAC system as an inline box. If yours is not part of an inline system, it will be located on a wall, on the ceiling, under the furnace or more rarely, in the floor. It is almost always located near the HVAC unit’s thermostat. Since room temperature air is pulled from the house into the return plenum where the filter is located to be heated or cooled, measuring the air temperature with the thermostat near the return is just makes sense.

You home's filters are installed using one of three methods. In most cases, the filter is located in a return air grill that folds open to reveal a one inch frame that holds the filter. If the furnace is in a closet, it may be located under the furnace’s blower unit. These are usually either held down with a U-shaped wire or end clip. A HEPA (High Efficiency Particulate Air) is usually slid into a 4" or 5" wide in-line HEPA filter box either under the blower unit or before the furnace (if the system is horizontally oriented). HEPA filtration is considered the best type of filtration since it stops the smallest particles from entering the core of the HVAC system. Only electrostatic systems can filter out more than a HEPA filters. In most cases, the in-line filters are simply slid out and new filters slid into their place. By far, the most difficult filter to change is the one that fits under the blower and is held down by the U-shaped wire or end clip. This design seems to be weak and allows the edges of the filter to be pulled up by the vacuum of the blower when the unit is on.

It’s always a good idea to have more than one filter on hand for each size your house uses. This will save you from having to make special trips to the hardware store for this frequent and very important task. Filters are not created equal so decide which system is right for your home but try to choose a filer with a sturdy frame. I personally use a Honeywell 4” HEPA return grill filters that fit in my home’s ceiling return air grill. This is a specially designed filter that uses the in-line HEPA concept but allows you to insert in to a standard 1” return air frame. They are not easy to find and I’ve never seen one at a hardware store. I use “return air grill media filter" as keywords to search the Internet for companies that sell this unique filter. Buy a case at a time and you’ll have several years of filters on hand.

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

What should I consider for home security?

2009-11-29T16:22:00.000-08:00

Home security can consist of several different possibilities.

Here a set of considerations for improving your home security. Some are simple and very cost effective while others may require an investment in equipment, time and more money.

Locksmith – Have a professional locksmith re-key all the locks on the house. You never know who has a key to your new home. There could be a key hidden outside by the former homeowner or a neighbor could have a spare as well.
A home safe - Installing a home safe is a very good idea. In a good sturdy fire-resistant safe, you can keep your house documents, inventory, medical/dental records, titles and other valuables. Securing a safe permanently in an out of the way location is the best solution. What good is a safe that's just sitting in the corner of your bedroom closet. Once an unsecured safe is carried away, you've still lost the items. Good crooks know how to drill a safe and get the goodies out.
Home security/alarm – If you are going to have a home security system installed or have the existing one monitored. Do it now. Having a security system monitored often returns a hefty discount on your home insurance policy. In addition to saving money, you get more peace of mind. Most home security systems have sensors on the windows and doors. Thieves know this so they break windows or kick in doors. Having a glass breakage sensor or motion detectors are often an additional expense but do a much better job detecting unwanted guests.
Doors – Make sure your exterior doors are closing well and locking tightly. Always lock the door behind you when you enter your house. Consider a longer striker plate for your door jamb. The striker is the flat metal plate with the curved edge that the door hardware slides against when latching. Standard striker plates only have short screws to secure them to the jamb. Some hardware stores offer longer strikers that combine both holes for the door hardware and the dead bolt lock. Most importantly, they come with very long bolts to actually anchor the striker to the framing of the house and not just the door jamb. It is very difficult to kick in a door with an extended striker plate.
Exterior security – Make sure you have good lighting all around the exterior of your house. Floodlights on all corners with motion detectors are a good choice. When anyone is near the house, the lights come on. Trimming back heavy foliage around the perimeter of the house can reduce or eliminate hiding places.
Overhead garage door - If you use an overhead garage door opener, when you arrive home. Be sure to look in both side mirrors to make sure you are the only one in the garage. Close the door completely before you get out of the car. If an intruder gets in, you have a very loud car horn that might change their mind.
A dog? - Yes, a dog. Dogs have been around since the dawn of man to alert humans to the presence of others nearby. Even a small dog can fend off potential home invaders. Yes, they are in investment with veterinarian bills, food, and time exercising them. However, not only do they provide love and companionship, they have a powerful duty to protect their pack with you as their alpha. If you loath the idea of rearing a puppy, consider an older rescue dog. These are often already trained and housebroken. There are many types of animal rescue centers in most towns. Animal shelters can also be a great source.

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I’m moved in. Now what?

2009-11-29T10:06:00.000-08:00

Moving into a new home is an exciting yet stressful part of your busy life and the stress is almost over.

You’ve been temporarily removed from your regular daily routine to find a Realtor and mortgage officer. They have helped you through the process of finding and financing your new purchase. The home inspection, negotiations and repairs are all done. Now, you’ve closed and you hold the keys to your largest investment. Most people breath a sigh of relief at this point. However, there are still a few things to consider now that the furniture has been delivered and the boxes are getting unpacked. We’ve put together a checklist of things to consider as you settle into your new place. Many of these items listed can help you organize and manage your new home in a safer more efficient manner.

First, update your profile. You’re my Healthy House.com profile is one of the most useful tools to organize and hold the contact information and records of those whom have helped get to where you are today. Be sure to select your favorite Realtor, contractors and those who helped you in the process of buying your new home. Here are some suggestions of those people you might want to add as a “Favorite”:

• Realtor

• Mortgage officer/broker

• Mover

• Home inspector

• Insurance agent

• Contractors like locksmith, roofer, plumber, electrician, pest control, lawn irrigation or flooring.

You should also update all your profile features like appliances and systems. Some home inspectors collect a lot of this data so check with them or refer to your inspection report. With an accurate profile, you will be poised to receive all the benefits of a smart house. The more detailed and current your profile is, the smarter your house becomes. The smarter your house, the more it can tell you exactly what it needs to stay healthy and the more accurate your maintenance records will be. When you sell your home, you can take advantage of displaying components of your My Healthy House.com profile as a tool to market your home.

Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things. Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile. Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

Checklist - "I've moved in. Now what?"

2009-11-29T09:57:00.000-08:00

Moving in checklist

Update your My Healthy House.com profile – Make your house smart

Add your house details
Add your “Favorite” Realtor, Contractors, Home Inspector, Builder and others
Set up your maintenance reminders to keep track of the things you do

Change of address. Use the Official US Post Office form.

Update banking and credit card information
Voter registration
Driver’s license
Newspaper and magazine subscriptions
Auto title and registration
Meet with your attorney to discuss changes in will, estate or other legal issues

If you haven’t already done so, set up these local services:

Auto Finance
Bank/Finance
Cable/Satellite
Credit Card
Dentists
Doctors
Dry Cleaner
Electric
Fuel (Gas/Oil/Propane)
Health Club
Lawn Service
Laundry Service
Pharmacy
School registration
Sewer District
Telephone
Trash collection
Veterinarian
Water utility

Other things to consider:

Check all your appliances and electronics to make sure nothing was damaged during the move. There may be a limited amount of time in which to make a claim to either the movers or your insurance company. You should make sure any big ticket items are working properly.
Keep all your receipts and any documentation related to your move in one file and keep the file in a safe, secure place. Make sure you have your Bill of Lading and payment receipt. You'll need these items related to tax issues.
When installing your laundry equipment in your home don't use the rubber (black or gray) laundry supply lines for your washing machine. They have been known to break and can flood a house in minutes. Instead, invest in the stainless steel braided laundry line which hole much more pressure without weakening the rubber.
Go ahead and check your HVAC air filter and change the filter is it is at all dirty.
Check your water heater's TPRV and flush the tank.
Replace all the batteries in your smoke detectors with fresh ones.
The first step to home security is to re-key all the locks to ensure you are the only one with access.

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Are my smoke detectors really that important? Would you rather be dead?

2009-11-28T16:45:00.000-08:00

The smoke detector is probably the single most important life-saving device in your home.

Homeowners should be testing and changing batteries in their smoke detectors annually. But, most do not. Having operable smoke detectors simply saves lives. Two-thirds of reported residential fire related deaths occur in homes with smoke detectors that are not working, have missing or dead batteries or are simply not present. What most people don't know is that the olfactory or smell sense shuts off when we sleep. However, our sense of hearing remains on and acute. Do you remember those days of waking up on Saturday morning to the smell of breakfast cooking?

The danger of a house fire is not necessarily burning up in the flames as most of us fear. It's the dangerous combustion gases that enter the lungs. Noxious fumes from different materials burning spread quickly throughout the house and we breath these fumes. Inhaling the smoke immediately affects our judgment and disorients us. The trick to saving lives in a fire is to get out into fresh air and away from the burning building as quickly as possible.

Many homeowners take these little devices for granted and assume they are foolproof and completely reliable. However, your life is in the hands of one little 9-volt or a couple of AA batteries. Batteries require testing to ensure they are indeed working and eventual replacement when depleted of their stored energy. There are many smoke detector manufacturers and many different types of detectors available. Check the instructions for each manufacturer's testing recommendations. If you don’t have this information you can test your smoke detectors by simply pressing and holding the test button for a few seconds. If the device makes a very loud noise while holding the test button down, then its working. If your smoke detectors are interconnected, like on modern homes, you should hear the detectors throughout the house as well. Never test smoke detectors by creating smoke or by putting a candle under the detector.

Modern standards require all new homes must have their smoke detectors installed in each sleeping room, the adjacent hallway and each level of the house. They must also be interconnected, hardwired to their own electrical circuit and even be AFCI protected. Interconnecting is important so that if one unit goes off, it triggers all the others in the house. Hard wiring is important so if the batteries are dead, there is a second electrical source to activate the alarm. Batteries are the secondary power back up if the electrical system shuts down during a fire.

In addition to testing and replacing the batteries in each smoke detectors, always make sure you have a designated fire escape plan and perform your fire drill annually. Smoke detectors will only wake you from a deep sleep. What to do when you awake needs to be figured out and become second nature when flames are near by.

Frequency: Annually
Difficulty: Very easy

Tools required: Ladder and a finger or a long rod to push the test button
Completion Time: 1 minute per smoke detector

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How do and why should I drain my water heater tank?

2009-11-28T13:41:00.000-08:00

Draining your water heater tank will not only make it last substantially longer but it will also be more efficient.

If you have a conventional tank type water heater, chances are the tank has never been flushed. Flushing your water heater removes build-up of sediment, which shortens the life span and efficiency of the unit. Water has a huge affinity to resist temperature changes. This is why a calorie is defined by heating a gallon of water one degree fahrenheit. The more efficiently we can heat water in the tank, the less energy we consume.

To drain the unit, refer to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you can’t locate the manual, here are some basic steps for draining most water heaters:

For gas units, turn the unit’s thermostat to the pilot position, and for electric units turn the unit off at the main electrical disconnect. This is either in the water heater closet or at the main or sub electrical panel.
Shut off the cold water supply. This is usually a valve with a handle located on the water line above the tank.
Attach a garden hose to the drain valve (which looks like an water faucet) at the bottom front of the water heater. Be sure this hose terminates at the outside of the house.
Open a hot-water faucet anywhere in the house to prevent a vacuum from forming in the lines preventing water from draining from the tank.
Open the drain valve and check the color of the water coming out of the end of the hose. At first the water may be orange or brown.
Once the water coming out of the end of the hose looks clear, shut off the drain valve, turn off the hot water faucet in the house, and turn the main cold water supply line back on.
For gas units you can set the thermostat back to the desired heat, and for electric units you can turn the power back on.

The average residential water heater tank holds 40 gallons. In most cases you don’t need to drain the entire tank, just several gallons till the water comes out clean. Make sure the hose terminates to the outside of the house and nothing is in the way of the drain water which will be very hot.

Frequency: Annually

Difficulty: Easy

Tools Required: Garden hose

Completion Time: One hour

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So what is the water heater's TPRV?

2009-11-28T13:15:00.000-08:00

What is the TPRV and why is it so important?

Your water heater is an important part of your home's plumbing system. It supplies hot water to all the areas of your house. Hot water is necessary for proper cleaning of you, your clothes and dishes. Hot water is important in killing germs. TPRV is an abbreviation for your water heater’s Temperature Pressure Relief Valve, also known as a T&P valve. This is a small brass pressure relief device that is typically located on the top or side of the water heater tank. When functioning properly this valve will prevent your water heater from rupturing, or in some cases even exploding. If the water temperature exceeds 210 degrees fahrenheit or water pressure exceeds 150 Pounds per Square Inch (PSI), this valve is designed to open and relieve the pressure by forcing water to the exterior of the house. In some cases water heaters have been known to shoot like a rocket through the roof when this valve seizes. This is when the water heater can over pressurize, rupture or explode.

It is always important to test the TPRV annually to make sure it is not seized and will work if necessary. Before testing the TPRV read the manufacturer’s instructions either on the yellow attached tag or the sticker on the tank. Most importantly, confirm that there is actually a drain line attached to the unit that terminates to the exterior of the building and elbow down a few inches from the ground. Most manufacturers recommend simply lifting up on the small test lever for a couple of seconds. If the valve is working properly the handle should life with little resistance and you should hear the flow of water in the line. The valve and line will get warm very fast so don't pull the handle all the way up. It will stay in that position unitl you push it back down. If the lever is hard to lift and you don’t hear the flow of water, you may have a seized or faulty TPRV. If you test the TPRV and notice that water continues to trickle out of the drain line, lightly tap the valve lever to re-seat the plunger and it should stop the flow of water. Some manufacturers recommend having the TPRV removed and visually inspected by a plumber every three years.

This is a new water heater with a perfectly working TPRV.

Frequency: Annually

Difficulty: Takes a little know-how

Tools Required: Two hands

Completion Time: 5 minutes

This is a ten year old water heater with seized valve.

Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things. Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile. Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

What should I know about foundation repairs?

2009-11-28T12:36:00.000-08:00

There are not only different kinds of foundations, there are different kinds of repairs.

Effects of the ground on a foundation can cause stress and failure to a home's foundation. Precautions for a healthy foundation are essential if you want to prevent expensive repairs. There really isn't that much you need to do maintain a healthy foundation.

The design of the foundation, will determine which repairs methods work best. Slab foundations are typically repaired using concrete press piling, steel press piling, steel helical piers or bell-bottom piers. Crawl space foundations are typically repairs by simply replacing old or damaged piers or by simply re-leveling the house. Basement foundations suffer mostly from water penetration so most repairs for this type of foundation are related to stopping the water from getting in.

The most common repairs in the southern states are for slab foundations and pier and beam foundations. Here are some of the most common repairs:

A bell-bottom pier is where you actually drill a hole in the ground, create a bell at the bottom for the bearing component of the pier, then pour concrete down into the hole. This pier is then uses to lift and support the house’s foundation.
Some foundation repair contractors claim that the steel pier method is considered the best in long run. The advantage of using a narrower, steel pier is that they can be pushed through the stiffer soils better than the concrete piling. The harder and more stable steel pier can be driven into solid rock or a hard loading bearing material at much higher pressures of up to 10,000 PSI. Steel piers can also be driven to depths of as much as 60 feet. A foundation repair using steel piers typically takes one to three days to complete. Steel helical piers are also an alternative to digging a hole or pressing a piling. Steel helical piers are drilled into the soil using a machine that measures the pressure the tip of the dill is exerting on the ground. When a pressure increase is measured that indicates a proper load bearing soil, the drill ceases and the pier is cut to fit under the house.
Some in the industry considers the pressed piling method of repair a fast, easy and clean solution. The pre-cast piling is mated with a solid core of steel and concrete then hydraulically driven using an installation force of 5000 PSI. Because of certain to soil characteristics, mechanics of friction and compression, this system can attain support strength of twice its installation force within one month after installation.
A more economical repair method is to drill or pour concrete piers. Holes are typically drilled to a depth of 9-12 feet below the ground surface, and then filled with reinforcing steel and concrete. Poured concrete is topped with concrete spacers and shims and the house is supported on this structure.

Any foundation repair work should begin with hiring a structural engineer’s evaluation of the site or structure. They will be one to test and determine which foundation system or repair would the best for your situation. Having a structural engineer involved is essential. Without their involvement, you chances of future problems is increased. The engineers job is to design and ensure the proper implementation of the design into the repairs. You should also consider a hydrostatic test especially if there is substantial deflection (greater than 2’ deflection over a 20’ span) or cast iron drains under the slab.

Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things. Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile. Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

What is a "Basement" foundation?

2009-11-27T20:09:00.000-08:00

Basements are not just for hanging out, they can be the heart of the house.

Basements are typically used in areas where freeze lines exist. For this and other purposes, the basement foundation is typically built stronger and better reinforced than a typical shallow foundation like a concrete slab-on-grade. Basements are not a good idea where the water table has the potential to rise or substantial excavation obstructions like rock exist. If you are considering using a basement with your new construction project, consider a full-height foundation of eight feet high. This will provide the necessary height requirements for building in the basement for living space and optimizing your investment.

Like slab foundations, gravel is generally placed below the poured floor for drainage control. Walls have been traditionally built of brick or block construction but modern methods include insulated concrete forms, and reinforced concrete. Floors of a basement are simply a slab-on-grade foundation with a water proofing system as part of the design. Most basements can be damage by water intrusion so waterproofing is essential for this type of foundation system. Basements are typically not used as sleeping rooms unless adequate emergency egress windows are installed to provide emergence egress and natural lighting.

Basements are typically used to contain important systems like HVAC, heating oil tanks, other utility, storage and even parking. There are different types of basements including the walkout or daylight basement, lookout, walk-up and cellar styles.

Walkout basements are typically situated on sloping lots to take advantage of the area under the house. A doorway is usually located on the higher part of the basement for walk in access. These types of basements are also called "daylight basements" since there are usually windows on the descending parts of the sloping lot to allow light to enter the area. With a daylight basement, emergency egress can be accomplished by the location of escape windows and doors so rooms can be used as living and sleeping areas. The big advantage of a daylight or walkout basement is the opportunity to use the additional living space as appraised square footage increasing the value of the home.

Lookout basements are those basements partial underground with windows near the top part of the walls. These basements can not be use as sleeping areas safely so they do not have all the advantages of a walkout or daylight basement.

Walk-up basements are generally below grade and are walked down into via a stairwell. There are generally no windows or the windows are partially accessible making use of this space less appropriate for habitation.

Cellars are likely the original form of a basement. For a cellar to be effective, it must be cool all year round and not get close to freezing. Wine and some foods will store well in cellars for some time. They also second as a shelter for storms and in times of war safety from air raids.

The critical factor for all basement construction is making sure the floor is below the freeze line. Freezing soils will expand causing excessive pressures that will push the house up causing potential damage. Walls are typically only seven foot and ten inches high unstead of the typical eight foot of most living space walls.

Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things. Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile. Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

What is a "Concrete Slab" foundation?

2009-11-27T16:23:00.000-08:00

Shallow foundations such as slab-on-grade are also know as slab-on-grade, spread footings and mat-slab foundations.

Concrete slab foundations are usually built in areas where freezing soils are not common. A slab foundation is a concrete and steel structure placed over a moisture barrier and the house's plumbing systems and allowed to mold to the compacted ground below. Footings are required to help stabilize the structure over time and fight against the ongoing and changing pressure of the ground below as moisture changes take place in the soil. Footings for a slab should be numerous and be dug to a depth where load-bearing materials are found. Forms, usually made of wood are constructed to hold in the concrete as its poured to mold the foundation. Once the foundation begins to cure and is considered "Green", the forms are removed. Later, a plaster coat is placed over the edges of the foundation to cover up the impressions left by the forms and make the edges of the slab more attractive.

Since plumbing is installed under the foundation, there is substantially more difficulty in accessing these items in case of a repair. In addition, the copper plumbing supply lines must be protected by sleeves to prevent the corrosive components of the concrete from making contact. Over time, if steel or concrete are in contact with copper, corrosion or dielectric reactions occur causing deterioration and eventual leaking may occur. Another problem related to slab foundations is the difficulty to repair or level slabs once excessive movement occurs or failing sections break away.

A slab foundation has the advantage of warmer floors in the winter and a good choice when expansive clay soils are not an issue on the construction site. However, even in Texas and California where expansive clay soils are prevalent, the cost to performance ratios still show the benefit of using lower cost concrete slab foundations in theses areas.

There are two basic types of concrete foundations used today. The mild steel foundation is usually used on custom or higher quality homes. It involves engineered drawings of specific placement of steel components and other criteria. Post tension cable foundations are generally used on track homes and rely on steel cables in plastic conduits. After the concrete is place in the forms, tens of thousands of pounds of pressure is used to tension the cables and hold sections of the foundation from failing if cracking takes place.

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What is a "Pier and Beam" foundation?

2009-11-27T15:10:00.000-08:00

Pier and beam foundations are also know as raised foundation, block beam and perimeter beam.

Known as one of the first built and more sustainable foundation types, pier and beam/crawl space construction is still used today. If your house is on a pier and beam foundation, you should have better access to the items under your house than a slab foundation allows. In contrast, a slab foundation has the plumbing buried under the house which are not accessible without digging under or breaking through the concrete.

For proper access, a crawl space door should be provided at the perimeter and should have a minimum of eighteen inches of head clearance and twenty-four inches of width. There should be hinges and a latch to secure the door. Preferably, the door will close tight, will swing to the side and not be in contact with the ground. Doors that swing up have to be held in place for access. In some cases, there is a removable portion of a floor, usually located in a closet, that can be removed so a person can access the crawl space. The minimum opening for a drop down door should be twenty-four by twenty-four inches and there should be at least thirty inches below this area for the person to safely move from a standing to a crawling position. The head clearance in a crawl space should be a minimum of eighteen inches from the ground level to the bottom of the floor joists. This provides access to areas of the house for inspection and repair. In most cases, the electrical wiring and plumbing is routed to all areas of the first floor from under the house and is secured by attachment to the bottom of the floor joists.

A crawl space should be ventilated to prevent accumulation of moisture which is damaging to the wood components as well as foundation movement and termite activity. The rule of thumb is to have evenly distributed vents around the perimeter of the building that allow a minimum of one square foot of ventilation per one hundred fifty square feet of crawl space surface area. In general, if you have a vent around the bottom of the house ever eight to ten feet, then you are probably fine. Often, homeowners will cover the ventilation openings in the perimeter to keep out the cold in the winter. This can be detrimental if the winter is damp. Decreasing the ventilation can prevent moisture from escaping the foundation crawl space and can cause damage. Some power ventilation systems can be designed to include a humidistat and baffles so that when the moisture is to high under the house, a fan turns on venting the moisture out. Once the moisture is vented out and the area under the house is dry, the fan turns off and the baffles close keeping out the cold.

Your crawl space should be inspected annually for plumbing leaks, wood damage, pest access and any other problems. Always be careful when accessing a crawl space by wearing protective equipment like proper clothing and a respirator for proper health and safety.

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Foundation control and stabilization

2009-11-27T13:26:00.000-08:00

Climate and moisture control

Homes are built on many different kinds of ground. Expansive clay soils are found in many areas of the country. If your home is on expansive clay, you will want to understand what you can do to care for and make your house healthy.

Your home’s foundation must be kept stable weather it is a concrete slab, pier and beam or basement. There are three primary ways to accomplish this goal and keep you house healthy. Based on changing weather conditions, excessive moisture, freezing soils or drought many foundations tend to move from their original position. Controlling moisture around the perimeter and even under a house is critical.

Rain gutters are the best way to control perimeter moisture from roof runoff and perimeter soil erosion during rainy weather. Proper grading and drainage away from the structure is equally important. Any spot where water can pool can cause expansion of the soil causing pressure to push the house. Finally, a lawn irrigation system will help keep moisture even year round. If you don’t have a built in lawn an irrigation system, consider a simple soaker hose if you live in clay soil areas. A soaker hose on a timer set to saturate the soil to about 18” deep every 3-5 days can help prevent excessive movement of a slab. Just make sure you are not over-watering a particular area and that the moisture is even around the perimeter.

Foundation movement can cause cracks to interior and exterior walls. It can also cause stress to the drain lines under the house to the point of cracking. This could lead to an quick and serious movement and enevitibly a more immediate and expensive problem to repair. Watch your weather and house closely for signs of movement as weather changes and prepare to take the necessary measures if movement gets out of control.

Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things. Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile. Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

Introduction to your home's plumbing systems

2009-11-27T12:56:00.000-08:00

How does water get in and out?

There are three basic utilities provided to most homes. These are the electric, plumbing and sometimes gas/oil fuel utilities. The plumbing utility consisting of the pipes and fixtures for the distribution of water or gas in a building and for the disposal of waste water or sewage.

Your plumbing systems are usually routed under your house and are designed and installed as two separate systems. Each separate system is routed under the concrete slab, through the crawl space or overhead in a basement. Water is supplied to fixtures like commodes and sinks through the water supply lines. In most cases, the main water line comes into the house from the water meter where its connected directly to the water heater area. From here, both the cold and hot lines supply water to other plumbing areas of the house like the kitchen, laundry and bathrooms. In these areas, as water us used, it goes from supply water to waste water.

Like the water supply lines, the drains that carry the waste water from the fixtures are located under the house. Drains can only work if there is slope for the water to drain out and away from each plumbing fixture. For this reason, houses built below the street level city's sewer drains, an ejector pump is often required to force the material up hill. Drains consist of two sub-systems. Gray lines carry used water from areas like sinks, laundry, tubs and showers to the main sewer line. Black lines carry contaminated sewer waste water from the commodes. Vents are necessary to control and discharge the sewer gases safely above the roof line so no one in the yard or house can smell the noxious fumes. All these drain components join up in different areas of the house and finally converge into the main sewer which carries the waste out from the house underground to the municipal waste water plant or septic system for processing. Most modern homes have a sewer clean outs located on the main sewer line in the yard in case the line needs to be opened and cleared of any clogs. Vents also have clean outs for the same reason.

Water supply lines for the past several decades have been made from copper. Prior to the use of copper, galvanized steel lines were used (pre-1970s). Modern home are now using more plastic materials like PEX (cross-linked polyethylene). However, PVC has been used as a water supply material since it's inception over 40 years ago. PVC however, has been considered more of a cheap alternative to more standard materials like copper. Plastic material is more cost effective to install than copper due to the rising cost of this particular non-ferrous metal.

A water supply system begins at the water meter. This meter measures the volume of water a house uses. The owner's side main water shutoff valve is generally next. You always want to know where this valve is located and that it is always accessible in case of a water rupture emergency. From the main valve, the main line leads to your house. Often, the main line goes directly to the water heater area then branches from there to all the plumbing areas of your house like bathrooms and the kitchen. Water supply lines are under pressure from the supply of water that feeds neighborhood. Generally, the maximum water pressure to a house should be 80 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch). More pressure that that can cause damage. For this reason, there is often a water pressure regulator located just after the main water shutoff on most homes built sine the 1990s.

Regardless of they type of house you have, there are some necessary tasks you will have to do stay on top of things. Learn more and keep up with your house with a free My Healthy House.com profile. Stay tuned and make your house the best it can be.

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.

Introduction to your home's foundation

2009-11-24T15:32:00.000-08:00

What is a home's foundation

Your home’s foundation is basically that part of the house where the building rests all of it's weight. The foundation's job is to evenly transfer the weight of the house from the roof through the ceilings, through the walls and finally from the floors to the ground. Another purpose of a foundation is to keep the house stable by anchoring it to the ground, from moving adversely or getting blown away . Foundations should also be designed to resist moisture penetration like water, ice and snow. It should also be designed to prevent pests access, mold and fungus penetration as well as ground gases from getting into the living spaces of a home.

The most important function of the foundation is resist the pressure of expansive clay soils and hydrostatic pressure from water in the earth. Changing climate conditions can have an adverse effect on the performance of most foundations if not monitored and controlled. Moisture control around the perimeter and under the house is critical for a healthy foundation. Any soil movement can cause pressure on the foundation resulting in cracking walls, binding windows and doors, or even floor deflections. In extreme cases, a house can be damaged to the point of collapsing in on itself.

Most modern homes built on lots without excessive slopes and where soils do not freeze will be built on concrete slab foundations. The deep footings that penetrate the earth are designed to support and stabilize the house. Foundation movement can be caused by natural climate changes as well as sub slab drain leaks under the house. Potential for this particular problem exists for all slab homes. However, the early slabs from the 1950s through the 1970s are especially prone to this problem since the drains are made of older more brittle cast iron. Since the plumbing of a slab house is routed under the concrete foundation, if any area of the sub slab infrastructure is leaking, substantial movement and damage may result. It is often difficult to discern exactly where the drain lines run with out special tests and equipment.

Basement foundations are often found in areas where there is a deep freeze line. The freezing soil can have a dramatic effect of pressure against the foundation walls and in some cases the basement floor. Placing the base of the foundation on a substrate that will bear weight is always preferred.

Pier and beam foundations sit over a crawl space that must be ventilated for proper foundation performance. Ventilation is necessary to keep moisture from accumulating under the house. In crawl spaces, it is easy to access the electrical, plumbing systems and in some cases the HVAC ducting. It is often easier to determine and control moisture issues on a pier and beam foundation than a basement or slab simply because of the visibility and access.

If you have any comments or suggestions on how this blog can be improved including suggested articles or constructive criticism, please send us feedback.